We drove up Highway 400 in late July to attend River and Sky, an annual northern Ontario music festival. Some friends of mine had filled the past two years with grandiose tales of a grassroots gathering that included dancing, camping, swimming, talking, eating and jamming, leaving me suspicious a festival could be so perfect.
Up until our trip, my short time in Ontario had never taken me north of Barrie for more than a weekend, not counting the cross-Canada country drive that saw me and my mom stop briefly in Thunder Bay and Sault Saint Marie. We saw mostly trees and hunters with dead moose strapped to the roofs of their pickup trucks.
A five-hour drive from Toronto took us to Fisher's Paradise, a private campground nestled on the Sturgeon River between Sudbury and North Bay. A dozen different bands performed over three days.
There was a well-balanced mix of hippies, hipsters, families and locals at River and Sky. A big green bus-turned-diner served up coffee and basic breakfast fare. Mild mannered baristas clad in tight jeans and cycling caps slung espresso and ran a bike-fixing station. While bands played on two different stages, volunteers cooked whole wheat pancakes and an assortment of gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches.
Two different camping areas ensured families with kids weren't bothered by our passionate 2 a.m. conversations about stars and constellations and the meaning of life.
During the day, a ragtag group of kids trailed after a bear of man with a bushy beard who split them into two teams for a neverending game of tug-o-war. A pack of adorable toddlers bouncing on an old rubber innertube sitting on the grass, occasionally knocking skulls, noses and knees, held my attention for more than an hour.
When we weren't listening to music on the grass (bands included Young Galaxy, Library Voices and Honheehonhee) we swam in the river and piled into a homemade sauna made from a retro camper parked on the beach.
When night fell I had my first experience with northern Ontario mosquitoes, whose swarms were so thick I thought I could open my hand in front of my face and quickly catch dozens inside my fist (note: that doesn't work). I doused myself with OFF! (note: that doesn't work either).
We danced anyway. The later it got, the more the energy of the crowd started to swell. Matthew danced so hard and so fast to Hollerado that when he stopped and lay in the grass, steam started to rise from his t-shirt.
We had every intention of listening to a midnight music session at the beach on Saturday night but instead fell asleep in our tent like the late 20-something working professionals that we are. Our last day was spent back at the beach, launching ourselves off an embankment into the river's lukewarm water and lamenting the end of the weekend.
I left River and Sky feeling calm, fulfilled and the good kind of tired. I didn't notice it until an organizer pointed it out, but the festival didn't have any security. No one started any fights. For the most part, people seemed to pick up their garbage. The crowd kept errant toddlers from heading towards the river.
I'll be back next year. And yes, I realize I managed to leave a music festival without a single photo of any performers.








